Re-bed the Forward Hatch and Test it and the Plumbing

Wow, that hatch was really stuck on.  After about 45 minutes of slicing it with a thin scraper it finally came loose.  The scraper broke several time, and I sharpened it on the sidewalk.  About 40 minutes into it I thought I should have just located the leak and caulk just the leak.  And then it came loose, but it still had vast amounts of caulk stuck to it.  I was pleased to see a discolored section in the corner where it had been leaking.  I decided to be much more discriminating with the caulk, and just caulk the gasket area.  I massaged the caulk into the surface to make sure it was attaching, and then I added a bead on both surfaces and put it together.  A reasonable amount squeezed out all around, and I used most of that coating the screws.  It wasn't as messy as I was afraid it would be.  I changed gloves a lot.
Then I realized I had forgotten the interior insert.  It had also been caulked in place, even though it doesn't have anything to do with waterproofing.  Miraculously it just fit, so I screwed it in place without any caulk so I can inspect the actual waterproofing seal.

Before I did the hatch I finished silicone caulking the hoses, where they go through the bulkheads.  Unfortunately I discovered two holes that needed to be filled with epoxy that I forgot, so I epoxied them.

I also replaced the three cleats for the locking lines that attach to the hatches that open into the cockpit with one larger one.

I figured out where the fuse block could go so that it would be near the battery.  It will really reduce the confusion in the wiring.  I also examined the fittings on the octopus and found that I could replace them with 5/8" connectors.  I'll have to unscrew the octopus, and there is one problem hose that may prevent me from changing it.  In that case I will have to use a hose barb adapter, but that is a bunch more hose clamps.  We'll see.  I ordered both parts.  I studied the circuit diagram and figured out the changes I will have to make.

Original Circuit Diagram

Changes to the circuit diagram

I got the rest of the plumbing hooked up including both the hot glycol plumbing as well as the fresh water.  Strangely enough when I started adding water to the system it was full after only half a gallon -- it should have taken four.  It turned out that I had only drained the circulation lines.  There was another five gallons in the tank for a total of nine gallons in the system.  

It turns out that a circuit diagram is not a wiring diagram.  I've been going nuts trying to figure out exactly which wire goes where so I can change the "domestic hot water" switch over to the "shower glycol pump" and disconnect that pump from working with the shower switch.  I got so burned out working on it I decided to take a break and test the hatch and plumbing system.

I got a hose and sprayed around the hatch for about five minutes -- Ta Da -- No Leak.  Then I put water in one of the tanks and turned on the fresh water pump.  It was like a fountain under the sink.  I forgot to put one of the hose clamps on, but that didn't fix it.  The selection valve was leaking.  I discovered that the back screws were loose, but when I tightened them up, while it stopped the leak, it was very difficult to turn.  Fortunately there is a "sweet spot" where it doesn't leak and is easy to turn.  The only other problem was leaking from the cold water sink foot pump.  It was leaking around the adapters for the hose.  I took them out and put Teflon tape around the threads, but that didn't work completely.  It turned out that when the hose clamps were tightened it was putting lateral stress on the fittings which was causing the leak.  I re-installed it with a little more play and the leak didn't come back.

The simplified plumbing system in the engine room.  The heat exchanger is located under the shelf.  The red and black hoses are for the glycol circulation.  The silver hoses are for the fresh water.  The brass valve in the wall is the mixer.